By Anita Krishan
I think were running a bit late. Could you please take us through the shortest route? I ask my taxi driver as he picks us up from the hotel. He nods with a grin and cuts through the early morning mist of Barcelona city and reaches us in record time to our tourist bus. Our final destination of the day is the Benedictine Monastery, nestling in the crags of the Montserrat mountains, about 50 km from Barcelona.
Story behind the monastery
[su_pullquote align=”right”]The Benedictine Monastery was founded in the 10th century B.C. and is functional even today with 150 monks residing on the premises.[/su_pullquote]
The Benedictine Monastery was founded in the 10th century B.C. and is functional even today with 150 monks residing on the premises. The abbey was burnt down and sacked twice by Napoleons troops, in 1811 and then again in 1812 in their quest for the Holy Grail. The violent suppression during the Spanish civil war (1936 to 1939) followed. 22 monks of the Abbey of Montserrat were killed by Republican forces in Catalonia.
The Abbey remained shut from 1835 to 1844, when, after its restoration, it reopened for the public. During the rule of Francisco Franco, 1892-1975, Santa María de Montserrat became a sanctuary for scholars and artists alike.
Visiting the abbey
Having absorbed the history of the Abbey we are on our way to visit, I focus my attention on the surroundings. Soon, an exquisite panorama of serrated mountains comes into view. The Montserrat Massif has traditionally been considered Catalonias most famous mountain range and I can see why.
Once we reach our destination, we find it pretty crowded.
It is Catalonia’s most important religious retreat and people all over Catalonia make overnight hikes at least once in their lives to watch the sunrise from the heights of Montserrat, says our guide.
We walk towards the Abbey from the parking, passing by a row of colourful umbrellas hosting a makeshift market. A variety of homemade cheeses, fruits, local honey etc. are being sold and I plan to pick some on my way back.
The famous ‘Boys’ Choir’
L Escolania at the Benedictine Monastery is one the most ancient childrens choir in Europe | Photo Courtesy: Bernat VivancosOnce inside the monastery, we are handed over to another guide. Youre lucky to have come today. The Boys Choir just returned from holidays and is performing after two months. It is one the most ancient childrens choir in Europe, dating back to the 12th century, comprising boys aged from 6 to 11 years. The admission is strictly on the basis of a natural voice and a musical ear. As a result, here begins the training of some of the most talented young Spanish voices.
We take a tour of the school. There are about 50 choir boys who live in the monastery, receiving a high standard of musical training.
[su_pullquote]The choir also called L Escolania, gives high-quality concerts not only in the monastery but all over the world. It enjoys international fame.[/su_pullquote]
The choir also called L Escolania, gives high-quality concerts not only in the monastery but all over the world. It enjoys international fame. informs our guide.
We peep into the small cubicles, each fitted with high-quality acoustics and equipped with a piano and other musical instruments. These are personal cubicles where one pupil is trained by one teacher.
I come to know that a good number of musicians and teachers are products of the Monastery.
An experience of a lifetime
The school tour over, we head for the sanctuary of the Mare de Deu de Montserrat, which enshrines the world-famous statue of the Virgin of Montserrat. She is Catalonia’s favourite saint and according to legends, the statue was discovered by a group of shepherds in the 9th century, who suddenly noticed a bright light emanating from the Santa Cova, the holy cave of Montserrat, and found it. They tried moving it to a nearby village but the statue became so heavy that they considered it a sign to leave it on the mountains.
I stand in the line to pay my veneration to the holy saint, who is supposed to have mystic healing powers and protects people from negative energy and truly, as I touch the golden orb she holds in her right hand, I feel a sense of well-being and peace within me.
Once back downstairs, we encounter young boys rushing past to change into their choir dress. The basilica hall is full to the capacity. As the boys begin to sing Salve Regina, I close my eyes to the soothing melodies. Even though I dont understand the words, it is an experience both beautiful and timeless.